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Transcript of the
Letter:
Page 1
Ladhopmoor August 26th 1843
My dear Friend,
The above
date will shew you that I have at length accomplished my long looked
forward to, and anxiously anticipated pilgrimage to my Fatherland. I am
now at the fireside of Ladhofmoor (not the old one tho’) and surrounded
by the scenes of early days; and as I am due you a sheet at any rate it
may be as well to write it here before I return to London. I came down
by Steamer to Leith and had a delightful passage of 41 hours – so
anxious was I to get home that I came right through that day I landed
per Coach, and took the folks here by surprise – they did not expect me
for a day or two – it was dark or rather grayish when I rapped at the
door – my sister did not know me, but my mother knew the voice at once,
albeit I tried to assume the English brogue as well I could – after a
fortnights stay I set out for the North – from Leith per Steamer I went
to Dundee, a large Town at the mouth of the Tay containing 60,000
inhabitants, the Trade here is chiefly carried on by Flax dressers and
sail cloth weavers – business a little better than it had been but still
very flat – thence up the Carse o’ Gowrie, a beautiful valley 22 miles
long and stretching back from the River (Tay) four and five miles. This
is said to be the richest land in Scotland – saw many fields of fine
heavy wheat equal to any I have ever seen in Essex or Kent – at the top
of the Carse stands Perth, one of the finest provincial Towns in
Scotland – it is a quiet and rather dull place as regards business,
there being little or no manufactories about it – saw here the place (on
the North Field) where the Battle between the Clans McKay and Chatten
(or Colquhon) was fought – also the Monastery where James 1st
was assassinated by a namesake of mine – bad luck, to the likes of him
says I [end page 1] From Perth, I went to Auchtergavin, where an Aunt of
mine resides, and remained a few days – it is 9 miles north from Perth,
and on the very verge of the Highlands – I had some capital rambles
among the hills while there – visited Dunkeld – the Braes o’ Athols, and
a few other places; From there I set out for Edinboro again; where I
took the Railway thro’ to Glasgow, - thence to Paisley, Irvine,
Kilmarnock and Ayr. The Town of Ayr and its vicinity you are aware is
rife with associations connected with the Scotia's Bard. I was determined
to see everything worth seeing and I was not disappointed. 2½ miles
Southeast from the Town stands the identical clay biggin reared by the
hands of William Burness and where greater part of his Family were born.
It is a low thatched house, on the highway side, and kept as a Public
House, for which the Landlady told me she paid an annual rent of £45,
and no doubt it pays her well too. She points out the bed, or rather the
niche or recess where the bed stood where the Poet was born – I
approached it with pious reverence and gazed on the narrow space with
feelings too strong for description. Retiring to the Spence or Parlour I
was shewn a Table on which the Poet while a youth used to write – it is
entirely over with names cut in the wood – from all parts of the world –
she was offered £15 for it, and when she refused that sum, the party
wished to purchase other two along with it and laid down £45, but the
worthy old hostess wouldn’t accept of it. Ten minutes walk from the
House stands Alloway Kirk – nothing but the base walls are left, and but
for the vigilance of the proprietor, they too would have been gone long
since piecemeal. The Burying Ground is still in use; on entering which
the first object that strikes the visitor is a simple stone; telling in
plain language that underneath repose the ashes of William Burness &
Agnes Brown, the Parents of the Poet, and on the other side the Epitaph
is engraved beginning “O ye whose cheek the tear of pity stains etc” –
saw the “Wesscock? Bunker” where his Satanic Majesty play’d the Pipes –
also Mungo’s well, - and the “Cairn”, - or rather a tree where the cairn
once stood, for I was informed the veritable cairn itself was dispersed
over the world – visitors taking it away bit by bit – a little further
on the Brigcross the Down where poor Maggie lost her tail, - an old
rumble down looking thing it is, - the keystone is cut full of names. I
was just in time to hear a party of visitors – twenty I daresay – sing
“Ye Banks and Braes o’ Bonny Doon” on the top of the Brig which they did
in full chorus very beautifully, and the echoes reverberated from bank
to brae in charming cadence. The scenery around, well deserve the
epithets of praise lavished on them in that song. The Doon is a
beautiful River, a little larger than Leader?, but not limpid for its
source is among moors and mosses – but its banks at this spot are much
improved and densely wooded to the water’s edge. A very splendid
monument is here erected to the Poet’s memory from the top of which you
behold almost every object of interest to be met with in his works: the
Luzzan? – Ayr – Stenchar? – Girvan – Cart – Colzean? – the Castle of
Montgomery – etc – In a little box inside the monument is kept the two
half Bibles which he gave to Highland Mary at their parting & on the fly
leaf I could hardly make out the name, but could distinctly read the
text of Scripture “Thou shalt not swear falsely to the Lord thy God” the
Masonic symbols are pretty distinct also – I was told these precious
relics had lately come over from Canada. After visiting every object of
interest, I returned to Ayr, and in the course of conversation with a
person there, I learned that Mrs Begg the only surviving sister of the
Poet had lately come to reside in the vicinity of the Town. The desire
to see a Sister of Robert Burns was irresistible. “Are you acquainted
with her”, said I, “No”, he answered – so off I set, and soon arrived at
her cottage and drawing somewhat largely on my stock of impudence and
making fifty apologies for any intrusion, etc, she shook hands and
welcomed me to her parlour, as did also her two daughters, where I sat,
and had a full hour’s two-handed crack with the trio. Mrs B is a hale
hearty looking woman of 71 years – being thirteen years the junior of
the Poet. I could at once perceive the linements of the Bard in her
countenance to whom she bore a marked resemblance. I remarked that it
must be very gratifying to see the respect paid to her gifted Brother’s
memory and that her privacy would necessarily be often invaded – “Atweel
ist” quoth she, “tis very gratifying and a’ mark a’ comers welcome, - I
like to see folks like yerself in an ordinary station o’ life that I can
crack wi; but ‘deed I canna be fashed wi yer brave flunkified leddies
and Gentlemen that come in their fine carriages to ma’ door” – She
appears to be, notwithstanding her diffidence, a woman of no ordinary
powers of mind for a person in her station of life. She was
extraordinarily crusty and told me many things about her gifted Brother.
She and her two daughters, thro’ the kindness of the Messrs Chambers
(Editors of Chambers Journal) and other Friends, who set on foot a
subscription for them – are now enabled to live in circumstances of
comfort and comparative affluence; altho’ in her earliest days she knew
what it was, like her Brother, to bear the biting frosts of penury – one
of her daughters, is a handsome looking girl, about 28 or 30 apparently
– the other a little older. I was much pleased with my visit to Mrs Begg.
The Town of Ayr is small, and little or no trade done in it – the auld
Brig of Ayr still crosses the stream – but is only used by pedestrians.
The new Brig is a handsome edifice; but the prophecy uttered by the Auld
One may yet be verified “I’ll be a brig when ye’er a shapeless cairn”,
for great attention is paid to it by the authorities. Among other things
I saw the window where Wallace was thrown over for Dead, as the
inscription over it imparted. I returned from Ayr to Edinboro by Railway
in 4 hours, a distance of 100 miles nearly. The Crops of grain in every
locality I have visited look healthy and strong only they are 4 or 5
weeks later than usual. The potatoes and turnip crops however in most
places are very inferior, and in many places a complete failure. Harvest
in this part of the Country (Roxburyshire) will not be general there
four weeks and much later in high lying places – but on the whole there
is every appearance of an abundant crop should the weather prove
favourable. I am now a comparative stranger in Elvan Water – almost, I
may say all my old companions have deserted it – I can only claim
acquaintance with the old Towers and Water, - the former are little or
nothing altered in their outward features – the latter gushes along as
greatly and pleasantly as in days of yore, tho’ in some places I observe
it has been tortured from its natural channel, and waving grain now
grows where you & I have paddled in its limpid waters long long ago. But
why lament these changes, we are, changed ourselves – twould be no very
cheering reflection to sail down the stream of time while every thing
around us remained in unchanging verdure. Cohuslie? Is now much improved
and also Colinshehill, - the whole brae face from the road (up from the
Bentmill) east to the Wood is broken in and excellent crops it produces,
- they speak of breaking a lump more in on the west side of the road to
extend up the length of the Blackcock planting. Mr Chisholm now resides
in the New House (Bailies) and has a few Sheep and young beasts on the
Mill Farm, - but I cant conceive how it keeps him, with the rank and
dignity he carries on – he was at Glasgow a few weeks ago, and brought
home a fine new Gig to appear like the rest of the Farmers, - for all in
Elvan Water now sport these Gigs, what think ye! And in these dull times
some can ill afford it I doubt, - however “better be dedd than out o’
the fashion” is the motto of many nowadays, tho’ it never was and I
trust never shall be an article of my creed. Mr Hoff of Calfhill, has
recently gone down to the splendid new farmstead built for him, at
Midburn, called “Glenday” [end page 5 with note “see page 1st
red ink”]
[At this point we return to the first page and turn it 90 degress
clockwise and begin to transcribe the now red ink which was a thoughtful
change by the writer to assist in delineating the cross writing. Begin
page 6
Glenday is by far the finest Farmstead in the Water, and built at great
expence – greater part of the office houses at Calfhill are pulled down
– the old House itself still stands, and is inhabited by three Families
– Adam Hoff as Shepherd – a Hind, and another man who works at Braining?
– Old Mrs Hoff is still alive but very frail and almost in her dotage –
she resides with Robert at the New House. Murray of Uplaw? Has built a
fine Mansion down from the Farm, that is a little nearer the Water, and
a great outlet to the place. I am just thinking what I can tell you as
most interesting, and have looked over Thomas’ Letter for that purpose –
a propos on that front, my Father is much to blame In part answering it
with that alacrity and promptitude it so well merited – the truth is he
did begin and I have now the three parts finished sheet before me and a
deal of matter heterogeneously piled together is certainly contains, but
somehow or other week after week went by when the Letter remained in
“status quo” – he is no Scholar, and half suspect he thought shame to
send it – however I shall give you all it contains only shifting the
scene from ’42 to ’43 – I trust Thomas will be pleased to overlook my
Father’s dilatoriness, and I can only assure him that it proceeded from
no want of respect, or cold indifference on his part – this I am fully
persuaded Thomas is satisfied of himself. [end page 7] I need only
extract the pieces of stock, grains, etc – “I arrived Fair this year
(1843) was better than last – there were upwards of 70,000 lambs part
bred from 10 to 12/, half bred from 8 to 12/ - cheviot lambs from 3/ to
1/6 – Buckholms to 6/ - for theirs, which was the current prices for top
weather lambs of the Cheviot breed were a shilling and 1/6 ??? than last
year. Owing to the failure
in the Inverness? Cups Ewes are, and will be very low this season at
Inverness Market Cheviot Ewes brought only from 8/ to 12/ Wool is 1/6
per hwt? cheaper this year – unlaid Cheviot from L to 22p per stone –
poor trade for herds nowadays Thomas from what we have often seen
oatmeal at present 27/ to 30/ a load – Barley Meal 26/ to 27/ - Pease
Meal about the same – the 174 lb loads at Galashiels settle at 3½ best –
Provisions on the whole are reasonable if work was plenty and Trade
brisk, and it is ??? better than it has been but still very flat –
Galashiels However has stood its ground well even during the general
depression last Winter - all
the Mills were going full time and some of them busy – they are very
busy at this time – a woman called in had this day from Calin? A ??? who
had here over with a bact full wood to get candid and on no account each
she get dry of shame to take it in – it is in fact the principle
manufacturing Town in Scotland for some kinds of fabrics – such as
Tweeds – Tartan shawls – Trouser pieces, etc-, grain, etc – [end page 8]
The population of Galashiels is now about 5,000 and great demand for
houses – there are also now 10 places of Public Worship and the 11th
is going on – Henderson’s is by far the best attended there being not a
pew to let, - I am glad they begin to appreciate his worth – he is in
fact quite popular & a volume of the sermons recently published has
extended his name and Fame far and wide.
The Secession of 400 Ministers from the Church of Scotland has
created a very great sensation here. The vacated Kirks are fast being
filled up but the talent and Learning of the Works as a body has left –
but these things you are doubtless as well acquainted with as myself.
What the ultimate results of this great movement may be I cannot say
tho’ doubtless it will work for good – at any rate the death knell of
Church Establishment has been rung – and much longer exist they cannot
and will not, either on this side the Tweed or that or wherever they are
to be found. New Ladhopmoor is a comfortable House in comparison to the
old one – it is slated, pavilion roofed – a byre with separate door at
one end, and the dwelling house contains, as but and a hen?, and chimney
to each a goof House is one of the best comforts of life – I am sorry I
have not your last letter with me to myself look over and see if there
was anything particular you wished me [end page 7] Me to mention. My
Father enclosed Thomas’ Letter to your Uncle James, at present herding
at Soutra Hill, and he perused it with great pleasure, and returned it –
two of his sons and one daughter are married – I saw your friend George
Dean at Laccemas?, he looks well and was quite bold – he rents a Farm
west from Glasgow, and keeps a deal of black cattle on it – they say he
is doing good with it. His Brother in Galashiels still drives a brisk
Trade – you are aware I suppose that he is married to Catharine
Sanderson of Meigle, by whom he has had two children – a son & daughter,
the former of whom is dead. Mr Hoff is still in Howlastone and has
lately had his lease renewed – Miss Hoff died about a year ago. Andrew
Dun resides in a croft House at Torwoodle, and works at anything he can
get to do – he has seen better days poor fellow – Alex Clapperton
carries on the Cattle dealing and Grazier business - he lives at
Tolleshill with his Brother John’s herd there and I hear a report that
he is shortly to be married and a Sister of his Brother’s wife Jean
Weatherstone who it seems has a little bit of the “needful” past here.
William Murrecy? Inhabits James Colsloughs old House – he has a Family
of 7 or 8 I believe – but he will get L300 at the Death of Ann Fabrezt?
To help him to keep them – this old Ann has by her Brothers deceased ---
[end page 9] Williams Brother George is a Gardner with Ballantyne of
Holyler? – Robert & James are Stone Dykers in Herriot. I hear the
sisters Jess & Betty have started Business in a Store as dressmakers,
and two more upish ??? girls are part in Gala ‘tis said – One old
Friends the Blackies I can learn nothing of for certainty. William is
married and herding near Hawick – James is not married it seems – their
Father herds at or near Landers – I know not that I can furnish you with
any further particulars as to our old Friends but as to all the
questions you can think of and I’ll try to obtain the information
desired – I will look for yours as usual about New Year’s Day – direct
as usual to 100 Stone Street London – My Father and Mother join with me
in sending our best wishes for you welfare – Father says Thomas must
write again and he’ll make a desperate effort to send one in return this
time – I Remain My Dear Sir,
yours most truly
William Graham [end page 10]
PS When you see the Colelaughs? remind us all to them their Friends here
are all well – I wrote George in the month of October last year, which I
fear he never rec’d as I have had nothing from him yet.
People here are busy at present with their bag hay – I have got myself
well tann’d at it last week – it’s a health – fraught – employment –
Does your prairie grounds field any crops of hay?
Saw James Henderson last Sunday – he carrys on the “cadging” alias the
Carrying, and resides at Gale Brig and is doing well – all his Family
are well – I never saw James looking fresher – he seems to be renewing
his age – neither of the daughters are yet married – John Murray
Buckholm is now very frail, and a cripple with rheumatism – Robert is
still in Williamlaws. [end page 11 which is written on the fly leaves to
the address panel.]
W. G.
The odd note: The writer, William Graham, takes note as he is passing
through Perth, of an ancestor being an assassin of James the 1st:
Matters came to a head on February 21, 1437, when a group of Scots led
by Sir Robert Graham assassinated James at the Friars Preachers
Monastery in Perth. He attempted to escape his assailants through a
sewer. However, three days previously, he had had the other end of the
drain blocked up because of its connection to the tennis court outside,
balls habitually got lost in it.
A further note on Galashiels: Galashiels has long been associated with
the textile trade and the first references to three fulling mills in the
town can be traced back to 1585. In 1599 Galashiels was created a Burgh
and at that time the population of the town would have been 400-450.
By 1788 there were ten employers in the town engaged in textile
manufacturing and this had risen to 35 by 1825. Due to the
communication/transport problems caused by the towns geographical
location the cloth produced was always going to be more expensive than
the "shoddy" cloth produced in Yorkshire where manufacturing costs were
much lower. Consequently the Galashiels mills concentrated on producing
cloth of superior quality. The growth of the textile trade led to a
rapid increase in the towns population which was 1,600 in 1825 and
increased to 18,000 by 1891, greater than the towns population today!
The railway came to the town in 1849 which had the benefit of halving
transport costs to Edinburgh and also led to an influx of foreign
produced wool into the mills.
The increase in population led to many changes both good and bad.
Schools proliferated, the first library was established in 1797 and at
the Great Exhibition of 1851 Galashiels firms were the largest
exhibitors in the textile section, scooping four of the twelve medals
that came to Scotland. 1831 saw the establishment of the Galashiels Gas
company.
On the other hand, the town became a Police burgh in 1850 following a
navvies riot which required the local militia to turn out to restore
order. 1849-53 saw three outbreaks of cholera in the town due to the
then inadequate water supply and sanitation.
1850-80 was the wealthiest period for the town before the textile
industry began to decline. The local connection with many of the mills
was lost following the First World War. The town lost 635 men during
this war, many of them in a single attack in Gallipoli. Amongst these
casualties were many of the mill owners sons so by the 1920's many of
the millowners had no natural successors and the companies were in some
cases taken over by outsiders.
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